So, treat the BX50 as a BX40 and you'll be fine. A switch then from say 'normal' brightfield to phase contrast is then a matter only of swapping nosepieces (I keep a loaded phase-contrast nosepiece also) and condensers - takes me about 1 minute to achieve either-way. The slide-in/out capability for nosepieces is really, really useful in fact approaches essential I would personally say. I have the bulb's photo-level (9V of it's maximum 12) button set to on routinely (the vast majority of my use is brightfield) as the full 12V is very bright indeed - all filters engaged still requires additional ND filters in the 3-filter swing-in/out filter cassette that I use attached to the top of the light-port! In this case I usually set my camera to mono to remove colour-cast from images - the eyepiece image is not a problem in this situation. The filters are ND and used to change the lamp's brightness without chaging the voltage and therefore colour of light coming from the bulb - the daylight (blue) for reducing the yellow-red tinge of the bulb - depends on preference and which particular bulb you're using - I leave this filter in all the time except when I need maximum light, usually for fully-crossed polarisation with weakly birefringent structures within plant tissue. They're used exactly the same way other than the above 'extras' of the BX50. I have a BX50, and nefore this a BX40 - they're very similar, and I'd say identical in all but the 100W halogen lamp with the 9V photo-button, slide-in/out capability of the NX50's nosepiece-mount, and the swing-in/out built-in ND and daylight filters filters.
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